This summer, Danielle and I plan to travel across the world from Europe to the Middle East to South East Asia. Watch our progress and revel in jealousy.
Friday, July 29, 2011
The Lotus Temple
During our last full day in Delhi, Derrick and I went to visit the Lotus Temple, made for the people of the Bahai faith. True to its name, it has 27 petals which form a lotus flower and is made of white marble and glass. It is one of possibly hundreds of religions present in India today. No photos were allowed inside, so this is all we have of the structure (one of the few free sights in Delhi that isn't covered by urine or smelly people).
McDonalds
Fruit?
The silly short-sighted person I was would have wondered what the heck these things were a few years ago. Since we have been on a few trips, we realized these were local fruits right away. Its always interesting to try something new, especially something that you cant find at home. I have no idea what these are called. The spiky fruits tasted like a cucumber and the large round one was the most sour fruit I have ever tasted.
Crowded
India is crowded. I was expecting some degree of crowdedness because we have been to a few places (Bangkok, Beijing, Seoul, Rome, Istanbul) that I would think were really crowded. This place takes the cake. Its not just the crowdedness, its the lack of basic human services like sewer and clean drinking water that really make it more crowded. The streets are covered with lakes of muddy urine water, mainly because it rainy season but also due in large part to government corruption siphoning funds away from government works projects.
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
India? More like Scamia or Smellia
So... What do I think about India? Not much. We have quickly learned that the price for a local is not what we pay for anything. Its sad really. You have to bargain for everything. A bottle of water that the locals buy for 10Rupees for us might cost 100R. The first few times I just paid but now I dont pay anything. Another kinda smart move we use when getting into a Tuktuk is asking a well dressed Indian guy on the street to hail it for us. Twice, this worked out well. The taxi thinks its a local and then we hop in and only pay the price the Indian guy agreed on. Another annoying aspect is the staring. I asked Danielle when we got here to cover herself up and for the most part she has done a great job, but the creepy Indian guys still stare and still come up and try to pick her up. A common question we get is... "Sister or Wife". Its almost like she is for sale if she is my sister. I think this because we read some personal ads in the local newspaper. Things like... "Family looking to make business arrangement and marriage for beautiful daughter". Its a really foreign concept to us. The other thing is the filth. It is filthy here. Its just like Nepal where everyone just throws their trash in the street. Wanna take a pee? Pee right where you are standing. Finished with that bowl of curry? Throw it right here. Stranger yet is all the locals wear sandals. They walk through the piss and rainwater mud mixed with garbage and dont flinch. Where me and Danielle tippy toe through everything. Its also not uncommon to see people sitting in the garbage filled mud. Mostly injured stray dogs are also a common part of life. I dont know... Its hard to explain what its like without seeing it and smelling it.
The Monkey Temple
While in Jaipur, we decided to visit a "Monkey Temple" We climbed us some mountain to this temple but found no monkeys in it. I think that temple should be renamed "Fly Temple" because it had swarms of flies in it. Disappointed, we walked down the mountain and on the way down, in an adjacent valley we saw the real monkey temple. Sadly, we didnt go to the real monkey temple because we were too tired from the first climb. There were hundreds of monkeys on the climb up to "Fly Temple" so we got our fill. These are called red faced macaques.
The Tattoo
While in Agra, I impulsively got something serious -- a tattoo! Well, it's henna, so it's not permanent, but some little girls spent an hour putting a henna design on my left forearm and hand, which will last 2-3 weeks. Henna is a tradition here, and many women have these tattoos on their arms or hands (even men have them to "fight away malaria").
Fort Agra
Agra fort was an interesting British relic that was left when the British left sometime earlier this century. The halls and courtyards are actually kept maintained. Read more about it here. The only annoyance for travelers... "One Photo". I wonder how many slaves were used to build something like this, and I wonder where I can acquire that many slaves. I think I deserve a castle.
The Taj
On our second day in India, we took an early morning train to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. The white marble and architecture was impressive, but it cost 750 IRP (nearly 18 USD) to see (of course, it was only 20 IRP (less than 50 US cents) for Indians). While we were there, Derrick and I were in nearly 300 photos with Indians we'd never met because, apparently, white faces make for good profile pictures.
The Elephant Plantation
Derrick and I went to go see the Chitwan elephant breeding center. There, we saw several baby elephants - including a pair of twins, which nearly never occurs in elephants. I was able to pet another baby. We also saw a wild male elephant, who came looking for a mate; the guide instructed us to be cautious, as it had killed three Nepali people within the past few years.
Monday, July 18, 2011
The Culture Program
Right down the street from our Hotel, there is a culture program in a small community center. Boys from the village come to perform old dances from Nepalese history. They were sword fighting dances with a lot of choreography. The boys all had sticks and would dance around doing mock fights with each other all in unison. I thought it was pretty impressive.
The View
Near Chitwan park is a great little hotel called Tiger Camp. It would be highly recommended to anyone who wants to stay near the park. The staff is great and speaks good English. They can help you book any adventure you want to go on. This is the view from right outside our room on the river looking into the park.
The Elephant Bath
Today, I quite possibly had the most enthralling, childlike experience ever! Derrick and I went down to the river close to our camp, and we got in the water with an elephant for a bath! The trainer had her lay down so we could get on, then she stood up and sprayed us with water on command to give us an elephant bath! It was actually very refreshing! When we walked to the river, there were several spectators watching the elephants. When we said that one was for us, one guy scoffed and then watched in disbelief as we disrobed and walked into the muddy-bedded water. Even better was that it only cost us the tip for the trainer of $3.5USD. Surprisingly, no one else got in after us ... no idea why they missed out on this amazing opportunity.
The Elephant Safari
Yesterday, Derrick and I took a 1.5-hour elephant safari in Chitwan National Park. While the ride started out with rain, it was a great time! We got to see a rhino in the wild very close to our elephant, as well as a peacock and some Nepali deer. Unfortunately, some Asian tourists on other elephants in our safari may have been too loud to spot much more. However, the safari backdrop was much like you'd imagine if you ever played Amazon Trail as a kid (except here, it's Nepal). We crossed through a stream on the elephant and through a bunch of muddy forest floor (where their wide gait made the ride a little bumpy).
The Manure
What do you do with garbage in Nepal? Take it to the local repository? No. You dump it in the river. Countless times on this trip we have seen people throwing bags of trash in the holy rivers on Nepal. Most of these rivers are said to the residing places for the Buddhist and Hindu deities. However, little respect is paid when it comes to taking out the trash. Its sad really to see such an amazing landscape littered with trash. (Pictured: a pile of burning garbage on the banks of the river)
Saturday, July 16, 2011
The Bat Cave
On our motorbike journey, we traveled pretty far in no-man's-land to Mahendra Cave. We opted to go without a guide, which meant sans-flashlights, but we did just fine. We sloshed through murky cave mud and random pot holes, as well as leaks coming from the cave, to a man who was giving blessings. I opted for a blessing for a small, 20-cent donation.
The World Peace Stupa
The World Peace Stupa was interesting but I do not recommend hiking up to it. The sign at the bottom of the mountain claims it is 2.5km up the mountain. I guess if they are talking vertical feet then I believe them. The trail we took went around the mountain several times and took us about 45min on a motorcycle. On the way down we saw some suckers hoofing it up the mountain. If you want to know more about the Peace Pagodas read here or if you want to know about this Peace Pagoda in Nepal read here. There are 80 of these Pagodas constructed all over the world. There are even some in the good old USA.
The Motorbike
When we were in Pohkara, we decided instead of paying for a touristy arrianged tour we would rent a motorcycle and drive around and see what we could see. The motorcycle rental was cheap, about $15USD. We decided on going up to the top of some mountain to see one of the 100 World Peace Pagodas. The ride was rough but we made it to the top. The Pagoda was not as spectacular as the tour guides touted but it had an amazing view. We accidentally drove up the wrong road the first time and turned around to see this amazing view of the Pagoda.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
The Guru
In Dunbar Square in Kathmandu there are many gurus selling photographs of themselves (but today, there were only two, as seen pictured with Danielle). In the old days, they used to be mystics giving out advise but now they are just tourist attractions.
The sqaure is a World Heritage site and is pretty interesting. For little more than 3USD you can enter the square and visit many temples. One main attraction is the Kumari, a 6 year old child who is touted as a diety. Lucky Kid? She has public appearences in alot of make up all day long. NO Photos Allowed! Kumari are prepubescent girls selected from the community who lives in a palace as a bodily incarnation of the goddess Taleju.
The Club
We went to The United Arab Emerites a few days ago. Because of a flight screw up on the part of FlyDubai airlines we were forced to spend two miserable days in Yerevan, Armenia. In the one day we had left in UAE we took a bus to Abu Dhabi to spend time with an old college friend, Kate. She took us out to the club in Abu Dhabi our first night. It was great for Danielle and Kate because one bar every night has a ladies' night where ladies drink free all night, no exclusions (except for bottle service). Drinks were very expensive but the club was super nice. That is just about how you can describe anything in the UAE. Its all nice. Its all brand new built on the backs of migrant workers from neighboring countries and oil riches. It is a must see for any trip abroad. The palaces of the presidents and everything else is amazing in grandue and style. The only bad part... the weather. 115 in the shade and very humid.
Saturday, July 9, 2011
The Culture of Armenia
Armenia is a poor country and there are more "Armenians" in Los Angelos than in Armenia. It is a proud, corrupt and sad country. It is a country that has been beaten up by every other country that has conquered them. They have been conquered by both Turkey and the Soviet Union in just the last 100 years. Armenia is a country without hope. Many of our Peace Corps friends told us that they are depressed going to work everyday because it seems like no one is doing anything. The people are sad because there is no opportunity - or more likely - they do not seize opportunities that come to them. Armenia has a run-down infrastructure. Everything that is running in this country is from the Soviet Union or earlier. This makes for tough going when it comes to buying a car... it must be imported at great expense (mostly because Armenia is landlocked and broke its ties with Turkey, its greatest trading partner, over the rights to Mt. Ararat). There are 8 oligarchs who run the country and are amazingly wealthy but most of that wealth is built on the backs of people who work for little or no money.
The Peace Corps volunteers get paid by the US government about 300USD a month, and for that they can live reasonably well, but to the rest of the country they can live like kings. The volunteers can travel wherever they want and eat and drink and make the conditions in this country bearable. From an outside perspective, I can see why there is no investment in the country, because who wants to invest in a country with a high rate of corruption and little to no work ethic? One Peace Corps volunteer told me that to get a business license he was applying for in order to help a village open a market, they asked for a 3,000USD bribe. That is about one year's salary for the average person here. This country has a lot to work on.
Another Peace Corps volunteer is working with a tourist company and is trying to boost the tourism rate in Armenia. Sadly, Armenians think that Armenia is the best tourist destination in the world (why wouldnt they?) Armenia is difficult at best to travel through. He told us about an ad for Armenia that ran in Western Europe that tried to convince Europeans to come to Armenia. The ad was about the trek of Noah... from Noah's ark, the Biblical story. There is one problem with the story: the main attraction for the tour is not in Armenia, but rather, the mountain in question is in Turkey. Mt. Ararat (the supposed "scene" of Noah and his adventures) is actually in Turkey, and Armenia has been fighting with Turkey over this land for some time now. This is important to know because for tourists, they do not care where the attraction is, whether its in Armenia or Turkey. They just want to see it. The Peace Corps Volunteer told us that running a tourism ad with a political undertone is so useless and more possibly damaging to Armenia's reputation. The churches that were in the ad were mostly destroyed by the wars with Turkey, Azerbijan and the Soviet Union. The road to get to the churches are mostly washed out or gravel.
The Peace Corps volunteers get paid by the US government about 300USD a month, and for that they can live reasonably well, but to the rest of the country they can live like kings. The volunteers can travel wherever they want and eat and drink and make the conditions in this country bearable. From an outside perspective, I can see why there is no investment in the country, because who wants to invest in a country with a high rate of corruption and little to no work ethic? One Peace Corps volunteer told me that to get a business license he was applying for in order to help a village open a market, they asked for a 3,000USD bribe. That is about one year's salary for the average person here. This country has a lot to work on.
Another Peace Corps volunteer is working with a tourist company and is trying to boost the tourism rate in Armenia. Sadly, Armenians think that Armenia is the best tourist destination in the world (why wouldnt they?) Armenia is difficult at best to travel through. He told us about an ad for Armenia that ran in Western Europe that tried to convince Europeans to come to Armenia. The ad was about the trek of Noah... from Noah's ark, the Biblical story. There is one problem with the story: the main attraction for the tour is not in Armenia, but rather, the mountain in question is in Turkey. Mt. Ararat (the supposed "scene" of Noah and his adventures) is actually in Turkey, and Armenia has been fighting with Turkey over this land for some time now. This is important to know because for tourists, they do not care where the attraction is, whether its in Armenia or Turkey. They just want to see it. The Peace Corps Volunteer told us that running a tourism ad with a political undertone is so useless and more possibly damaging to Armenia's reputation. The churches that were in the ad were mostly destroyed by the wars with Turkey, Azerbijan and the Soviet Union. The road to get to the churches are mostly washed out or gravel.
(Pictured is Armenian White House)
Armenia vs. Hungary
There was a contingent of Hungarian soccer hooligans staying at our hostel for a few days. They invited us to the Armenia vs. Hungary soccer game that was on Friday. We went but we did not sit with them. They were shirtless and wasted. As you can see from the picture, the stadium was empty. Thankfully for us, the game was free. There were probably 6 Hungarian guys who went to the game but I think they were cheering louder than the 200 Armenian fans. A line of police seperated the two groups of spectators for safety reason, I guess. Hungary won 2-0.
The Distillery
One day, we went to the Ararat Cognac Distillery. It was a fun trip, mostly because it was so cheap and we got to sample some "Cognac". I say Cognac in quotes because it is not considered Cognac by the rest of the world. Cognac must be made in the Cognac region of France. If you buy this product in the US it will be labeled brandy. Other than that, it was tasty. I would recommend the tour to anyone. It only cost 3500 dram for each of us to visit the distillery and have a generous tasting.
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
The Sausages
For the Fourth of July, we made home-made sausages with real pig intestines as the casing. It was a very interesting experience, to say the least (not to mention a little stomach-churning). But that night, we went out to another part of the river we had gone to the previous day and grilled the brats/sausages - they were well worth putting up with pig intestines and delicious.
The Silk Road Tubing
We found tire tubes and took them down to a river by the old silk road bridge about 5 km from Meag's village. The bridge actually was part of the silk road. We all tried our hand at going down the river on the tubes, but it was so shallow, rocky and had a fast current, so Derrick and I each only tried it once (we still have the bruises to prove it). In the tubing picture, I am the third one, right after I flipped head-over-feet out of the tube.
The Roadtrip to Jermuk
A group of Meag's friends ventured with us to the Armenian "resort" town of Jermuk. Jermuk has natural springs, which the Armenians bottle into water, but it has too much arsenic to pass US standards so can only be sold there. We took a relaxing tour of the lake on an electric-powered floating cafe. We also took a trek to a waterfall that Jermuk is famous for.
The Locals Part II
After the church, we went to one Armenian guy's home, where we all helped cook a meal of "horovats", which is Armenian BBQ that's cooked over a twig and brush fire, served with lavash (a flat, tortilla-like bread), cucumbers, tomatoes and more vodka. On the way, we drove by a herd of cattle walking on the road.
The Locals
While at a cafe, a group of local Armenian guys invited us to their table for the local sips - of lots of vodka. As a former Soviet republic, these men even drank a glass (an actual glass) of vodka with breakfast. After we had our fill, we went with them on a crazy ride to a church on the top of a mountain. The windy roads and crammed car attested to my cognac-soaked dress as the Armenian guy's car tossed us about this mountaintop road. We then made it to the small church, where we lit candles and had a trifecta of candles, chocolates and cognac. Derrick, in his dancing mood, danced his way into a mildly sprained ankle (but is now fine).
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